Posted on 27/10/25
Day 9: Over the Mountain Passes to Phobjikha Valley
After the dramatic night drive into Bumthang, today's journey over the high mountain passes felt almost tame in comparison—though crossing elevations exceeding 3,400 meters is never entirely routine. With Yoda skillfully navigating the winding roads, we had the luxury of actually enjoying the journey rather than white-knuckling it through the darkness.
Trongsa Dzong: The Fortress of Power
The stop at Trongsa Dzong was the journey's cultural centerpiece, and it's a fortress that more than lives up to its dramatic setting.
Trongsa Dzong was founded in 1644 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal's great-grandfather, Chögyal Minjur Tempa. However, it was greatly expanded in 1648 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal himself, the lama who unified Bhutan. The dzong's position is no accident—it commands the only route connecting eastern and western Bhutan, making it arguably the most strategically important fortress in the country's history.
The dzong earned the nickname "the fortress that can be seen from all directions" due to its dramatic perch on a spur overlooking the gorge of the Mangde Chhu river. Before Bhutan's monarchy was established in 1907, controlling Trongsa Dzong meant controlling Bhutan. In fact, both the first and second kings of Bhutan served as Trongsa Penlop (governor) before ascending to the throne, establishing a tradition that continues symbolically today—the Crown Prince traditionally holds the title of Trongsa Penlop.
The architectural photography was spectacular. The dzong is a masterpiece of Bhutanese architecture, with its multiple levels cascading down the hillside, connected by narrow passages and steep steps.
The willing monks posing for portraits added wonderful human elements to the architectural shots—their maroon robes providing perfect colour contrast against the whitewashed walls and traditional woodwork.
The Light Show
The journey itself became part of the day's photography, with nature putting on a magnificent display. Shafts of light broke through the clouds, illuminating patches of forest in that magical way that makes you pull over repeatedly. These mountain passes between Bumthang and Phobjikha offer some of Bhutan's most dramatic landscapes, where the play of light and shadow across the valleys creates constantly changing compositions.
Phobjikha Valley
We arrived in the glacial valley of Phobjikha (also spelled Phobjika) with time to settle in before dark—always a bonus after a long mountain drive. The rural hotel with log burners was perfect for the valley's cool evening temperatures at this elevation.
I was reminded of New Zealand and Phobjikha has that same quality of a high, pristine valley ringed by mountains, with a remote, end-of-the-road feeling. The valley is actually a designated conservation area, famous as the winter home of black-necked cranes that migrate from Tibet (though they typically arrive in late October/early November and stay until March).
Posted on 24/10/25
Day 8: Tang Valley - Nunneries, Villages, and Living Heritage
The morning light filtered through my hotel windows in Bumthang, promising another day of discovery. Today we would venture into the Tang Valley, one of Bhutan's most remote and culturally significant valleys, where ancient traditions continue largely unchanged by the modern world.
Posted on 23/10/25
Day 7: The Castle of the White Bird - Jakar Dzong
Day seven of our Bhutan adventure dawned with a sense of anticipation. After a leisurely breakfast, we made our way up the hillside to Jakar Dzong, where we would spend an enchanting morning immersed in the rhythms of monastic life.
Posted on 23/10/25
Day 6: Punakha to Bumthang – Through the High Passes
The day began in the pre-dawn darkness, returning to Punakha Dzong to capture something we'd only glimpsed the day before—the ethereal mists rising from the confluence of the Pho and Mo Chhu rivers. In the soft morning light, the fortress seemed to float between earth and sky, wrapped in layers of shifting vapor that transformed the valley into something ancient and dreamlike.
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