Posted on 27/10/25
Day 10: From Phobjikha Valley to Dochula Pass
We woke to our last morning at Kichu Resort, the peaceful Phobjikha Valley spread out before us like a misty dream. After breakfast, we packed up and prepared for today’s journey, but not before one final, unforgettable experience in this sacred valley.
A Dance at Gangtey Sangngacholing Goenpa
Our first stop was the magnificent Gangtey Sangngacholing Goenpa, perched on a hilltop overlooking the valley. This 17th-century monastery is the only Nyingmapa monastery in western Bhutan and holds a special place in the hearts of the local community.
What awaited us inside was something truly special – monks dressed in elaborate traditional costumes performing sacred dances just for our group. Their silk brocade robes swirled in brilliant colors of red, gold, and blue as they moved through the ancient choreography. The masked dancers embodied deities and spirits, telling stories of good triumphing over evil, of protection and blessing.
Watching these dances, which are usually only performed during festivals, felt like a tremendous privilege. The rhythmic beating of drums, the clash of cymbals, and the haunting melodies of the traditional instruments created an atmosphere that was both hypnotic and deeply moving. Each gesture, each step had meaning passed down through generations of monks.
The Language of Prayer Flags
Leaving the monastery behind, we began our ascent through winding mountain roads. What struck me immediately was the increasing presence of prayer flags – at first just a few strings here and there, then dozens, then hundreds, until we found ourselves driving through what felt like rivers of colored fabric flowing across the mountainside.
Prayer flags are one of the most iconic and meaningful symbols you’ll encounter in Bhutan. These rectangular pieces of cloth, always arranged in a specific order – blue, white, red, green, and yellow – represent the five elements: sky, air, fire, water, and earth. Each colour carries prayers and mantras, most commonly “Om Mani Padme Hum,” printed or hand-painted onto the fabric.
The Bhutanese believe that as the wind blows through these flags, it carries the prayers and blessings outward, spreading compassion and goodwill to all beings. The flags aren’t meant to carry prayers to the gods, but rather to spread positive energy throughout the world. As they fade and fray in the mountain wind, this is seen as a natural part of the cycle – the prayers have been released, and eventually new flags will be hung.
You’ll see prayer flags at mountain passes (like where we were heading), bridges, monasteries, and homes. They’re often hung at significant life events – births, deaths, or as blessings for travelers. There’s something deeply poetic about the idea that these simple pieces of cloth, dancing in the Himalayan wind, are spreading peace and compassion across the mountains.
Dochula Pass in Golden Hour
As late afternoon approached, we arrived at Dochula Pass, sitting at 3,100 meters (10,200 feet). This mountain pass is famous for two things: its 108 chortens (stupas) built in memory of Bhutanese soldiers, and its absolutely spectacular views of the eastern Himalayas.
The timing of our arrival couldn’t have been more perfect. The late afternoon light painted everything in warm gold and amber tones. The 108 chortens – called the Druk Wangyal Chortens – stood in concentric circles like white sentinels, their spires pointing toward the sky. Against the backdrop of the prayer flags fluttering in every direction and the snow-capped peaks emerging from the clouds, the scene was almost overwhelming in its beauty.
I spent the golden hour wandering among the chortens, camera in hand, trying to capture the magic of this place. The prayer flags strung between the stupas created layered frames of color against the sky.
Other travelers and Bhutanese pilgrims moved quietly through the site, spinning prayer wheels and adding their own prayers to those already carried by the wind. There was a profound sense of peace here, a feeling that we stood at a threshold between earth and sky.
As the light finally began to fade and the mountain air turned crisp, we reluctantly made our way back to our vehicle. Tomorrow would bring new adventures, but tonight, my mind was full of swirling prayer flags, sacred dances, and mountain passes where the physical world seems to touch something beyond itself.
The journey continues…
Posted on 27/10/25
Day 9: Over the Mountain Passes to Phobjikha Valley
After the dramatic night drive into Bumthang, today's journey over the high mountain passes felt almost tame in comparison—though crossing elevations exceeding 3,400 meters is never entirely routine. With Yoda skillfully navigating the winding roads, we had the luxury of actually enjoying the journey rather than white-knuckling it through the darkness.
Posted on 24/10/25
Day 8: Tang Valley - Nunneries, Villages, and Living Heritage
The morning light filtered through my hotel windows in Bumthang, promising another day of discovery. Today we would venture into the Tang Valley, one of Bhutan's most remote and culturally significant valleys, where ancient traditions continue largely unchanged by the modern world.
Posted on 23/10/25
Day 7: The Castle of the White Bird - Jakar Dzong
Day seven of our Bhutan adventure dawned with a sense of anticipation. After a leisurely breakfast, we made our way up the hillside to Jakar Dzong, where we would spend an enchanting morning immersed in the rhythms of monastic life.
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