Posted on 23/10/25
Day 7: The Castle of the White Bird - Jakar Dzong
Day seven of our Bhutan adventure dawned with a sense of anticipation. After a leisurely breakfast, we made our way up the hillside to Jakar Dzong, where we would spend an enchanting morning immersed in the rhythms of monastic life.
A Fortress with Wings
Perched majestically on a ridge above the Chamkhar valley, Jakar Dzong commands attention from almost anywhere in Bumthang. Its name—derived from "bjakhab" meaning "white bird"—carries with it a legend that perfectly captures the spiritual essence of this place. According to tradition, when the Tibetan lama Ngagi Wangchuk sought the ideal location for a monastery in 1549, a great white bird rose into the air and settled on this very spur of hillside. The lamas took this as an auspicious sign, and so the "Castle of the White Bird" came into being.
What began as a modest temple has evolved into what may be Bhutan's largest dzong, with a circumference stretching over 1,500 meters. The structure we see today was significantly expanded in 1667, transforming from a place of worship into a formidable fortress that would play a crucial role in defending eastern Bhutan from Tibetan invasions throughout the 17th century.
Morning with the Monks
This morning, the dzong's ancient courtyards came alive with a different kind of energy. As we entered through the narrow courtyard surrounded by administrative offices, we found young monks in deep concentration, practicing their ceremonial dances and rituals for an upcoming festival. Their maroon robes swirled in the mountain breeze as they rehearsed intricate movements that have been passed down through generations.
The monks who call Jakar Dzong home are part of Bumthang's regional monastic body. Beyond the utse—the imposing central tower that rises 50 meters high on the eastern wall—lie their living quarters, a world unto itself where ancient Buddhist teachings continue to be studied and practiced daily. These young monks, some barely teenagers, are the living link to traditions that stretch back nearly five centuries.
Photographing them was a privilege. Their focus never wavered as they moved through their practice, each gesture deliberate and meaningful. Between rehearsals, some of the younger monks were happy to chat, their curiosity about us matching our own fascination with their way of life. Their laughter echoed off the dzong's massive walls, a reminder that even in this bastion of tradition and spirituality, joy and youthfulness find their place.
The images below capture monks in traditional Bhutanese festival costumes and masks, part of the sacred Cham dance tradition that forms the spiritual centerpiece of religious festivals (tshechus) throughout Bhutan.
The Sacred Purpose
The elaborate masks and costumes serve profound religious purposes. Monks perform these ritual dances to invoke protective deities, drive away malevolent spirits, and purify sacred spaces. Each mask represents a specific deity, demon, or spiritual being from Tibetan Buddhist iconography—the fierce protector deities with bulging eyes and fangs, the peaceful manifestations, and various animals all carry deep symbolic meaning.
Historical Origins
The Cham dance tradition was introduced to Bhutan in the 8th century by Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava), who brought Buddhism to the Himalayan region. He choreographed these "dances in a vision" to subdue local spirits and demons that were hostile to Buddhism's spread. Over centuries, different Buddhist masters added their own dance compositions, creating the rich repertoire performed today.
The Symbolism
The Images demonstrate several types of mask: the blue snow lion or dragon masks with their flowing manes and fierce expressions represent protective forces; the deer mask with antlers may represent compassion or specific Buddhist narratives; and the elaborate silk brocade costumes in vibrant colors symbolize the richness of the Buddhist teachings. The masks transform the monks into living embodiments of these spiritual forces—they're not merely performing but channeling divine energy for the benefit of all observers.
For spectators, watching these dances is believed to bring blessings, purification, and merit. The tradition continues as a vital link between Bhutan's spiritual heritage and contemporary religious practice.
Jakar Dzong isn't just a monument—it's a living, breathing part of Bhutanese culture, and we were fortunate to witness one small moment in its continuing story.
Tomorrow: We continue our exploration of Bumthang's sacred valley...
Posted on 23/10/25
Day 6: Punakha to Bumthang – Through the High Passes
The day began in the pre-dawn darkness, returning to Punakha Dzong to capture something we'd only glimpsed the day before—the ethereal mists rising from the confluence of the Pho and Mo Chhu rivers. In the soft morning light, the fortress seemed to float between earth and sky, wrapped in layers of shifting vapor that transformed the valley into something ancient and dreamlike.
Posted on 22/10/25
Day 5 - Dochula Pass and the Majestic Punakha Dzong
Day 5 of our Nepal and Bhutan adventure demanded an early wake-up call in Thimphu, as we set out well before sunrise to reach one of Bhutan’s most photogenic and spiritually significant mountain passes.
Posted on 22/10/25
Day 4 - Journey to Bhutan - Thimphu and the Great Buddha Dordenma
Day 4 of our Nepal and Bhutan adventure began before dawn in Kathmandu as we prepared to catch the 9 AM flight to Paro, Bhutan. The flight itself proved to be an unforgettable experience, offering breathtaking aerial views of Mount Everest—the world’s highest peak at 8,849 meters—before our descent into Paro’s remarkable valley airport, considered one of the most challenging yet scenic approaches in the world.
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