Posted on 22/10/25
Dochula Pass: 108 Chortens at Dawn
The drive to Dochula La Pass (la means “pass” in Dzongkha, Bhutan’s national language) took us to an elevation of 3,100 meters (10,171 feet), where we arrived in the pre-dawn darkness to witness sunrise over one of the Himalayas’ most spectacular panoramas. The temperature hovered around zero degrees Celsius, and the wind chill made it feel considerably colder, but the harsh conditions were quickly forgotten as dawn broke over the mountains.
The pass is crowned by the Druk Wangyal Chortens—108 stupas arranged in a beautiful mandala pattern.
These memorial chortens were built in 2005 by Her Majesty Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck, the eldest Queen Mother of Bhutan, to honor the Bhutanese soldiers who sacrificed their lives in December 2003. During that military operation, Bhutan’s army successfully expelled Indian insurgent groups that had been using southern Bhutan as a base, demonstrating the nation’s commitment to sovereignty and peace.
The number 108 is deeply significant in Buddhism, representing the number of defilements to overcome on the path to enlightenment, as well as the number of beads on a traditional Buddhist mala (prayer beads).
As the sun rose, its golden rays illuminated the white-washed chortens while revealing the magnificent snow-capped peaks of the eastern Himalayas stretching across the horizon.
Among the visible peaks was Gangkhar Puensum, standing at 7,570 meters (24,836 feet)—Bhutan’s highest mountain and, remarkably, the highest unclimbed mountain in the world. Since 1994, Bhutan has prohibited mountaineering on peaks above 6,000 meters out of respect for local spiritual beliefs that consider these mountains sacred.
The morning light playing across these pristine, untouched summits created a photographic spectacle that made our early start and frozen fingers entirely worthwhile.
Punakha Dzong: The Palace of Great Happiness
Punakha is steeped in Bhutanese history. It served as the capital of Bhutan until 1955 and remains the winter residence of the Je Khenpo (Chief Abbot) and the central monastic body. The valley’s moderate climate and fertile soil make it one of Bhutan’s most productive agricultural regions.
Our destination was the magnificent Punakha Dzong, formally known as Pungthang Dewa chhenbi Phodrang, meaning “the palace of great happiness or bliss.” Constructed in 1638 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the founder and unifier of Bhutan, this dzong stands at the confluence of the Pho Chhu (father river) and Mo Chhu (mother river), creating a stunning natural setting that enhances its architectural grandeur.
The dzong is considered one of the most beautiful in Bhutan, featuring elaborate woodwork, intricate paintings, and towering whitewashed walls punctuated by golden roofs. At six stories tall and measuring 180 meters in length, it’s also one of the largest dzongs in the country.
The structure has survived numerous fires, floods, and an earthquake, yet has been meticulously restored each time, testament to its importance in Bhutanese culture and history.
Inside the dzong’s courtyards, we captured images of monks going about their daily routines—their maroon robes brilliant against the whitewashed walls. The main temple houses precious relics, including a magnificent statue of Buddha that commands reverence from all who enter. While photography wasn’t permitted inside the temple itself, the experience of witnessing this sacred space—with its butter lamps flickering, the scent of incense, and the deep resonance of prayer—created memories that transcend any photograph.
As we departed, we encountered a young monk whose playful spirit perfectly captured the joy that permeates Bhutanese Buddhism. We encouraged him to run up and down the temple stairs, and he obliged with infectious enthusiasm, his robes billowing as he bounded up and down—a wonderful reminder that spirituality and childlike joy are not mutually exclusive.
Reflections on Day 5
From the frozen heights of Dochula Pass at dawn to the warm valley floors of Punakha by afternoon, Day 5 showcased Bhutan’s incredible geographical diversity and cultural richness. The 108 chortens standing sentinel over the Himalayas and the ancient dzong presiding over the confluence of two rivers both spoke to Bhutan’s deep connection between the physical landscape and spiritual life—a connection that makes this kingdom truly unique in the modern world.
Posted on 23/10/25
Day 6: Punakha to Bumthang – Through the High Passes
The day began in the pre-dawn darkness, returning to Punakha Dzong to capture something we'd only glimpsed the day before—the ethereal mists rising from the confluence of the Pho and Mo Chhu rivers. In the soft morning light, the fortress seemed to float between earth and sky, wrapped in layers of shifting vapor that transformed the valley into something ancient and dreamlike.
Posted on 22/10/25
Day 4 - Journey to Bhutan - Thimphu and the Great Buddha Dordenma
Day 4 of our Nepal and Bhutan adventure began before dawn in Kathmandu as we prepared to catch the 9 AM flight to Paro, Bhutan. The flight itself proved to be an unforgettable experience, offering breathtaking aerial views of Mount Everest—the world’s highest peak at 8,849 meters—before our descent into Paro’s remarkable valley airport, considered one of the most challenging yet scenic approaches in the world.
Posted on 21/10/25
Day 3 - Swayambhunath: The Monkey Temple
After the profound spiritual experience at Pashupatinath, I made my way to one of Kathmandu's most iconic sites – Swayambhunath Stupa, affectionately known as the Monkey Temple. Perched atop a hill on the western edge of the Kathmandu Valley, this ancient religious complex is said to be over 2,000 years old, making it one of the oldest Buddhist sites in Nepal.
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